
Full Lawn Renovation Step-by-Step Guide for Aussie Lawns
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Time to read 5 min
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Time to read 5 min
A full lawn renovation is the ultimate way to transform a tired, patchy lawn into a lush, green masterpiece. Whether you’re dealing with weeds, bare spots, or compacted soil, a proper renovation resets your turf and gives it the best chance to thrive. This step-by-step renovation guide will take you through everything you need to know for a successful lawn renovation, tailored to Australian conditions.
Over time, lawns become compacted, choked with thatch, or invaded by weeds. A lawn renovation improves soil health, promotes vigorous growth, and restores your lawn’s ability to resist pests and diseases. Renovation is a process that provides long-lasting results if done properly.
Key benefits of a full lawn renovation:
Removes thatch and compaction
Levels uneven areas for a smoother finish
Encourages strong root development
Helps warm-season and cool-season grasses spread more effectively
Spring and early autumn are the best times to renovate your lawn in Australia. A well-timed renovation can rejuvenate even the most neglected lawns and prepare them for year-round success.
Before starting, inspect your lawn to understand what it needs for renovation:
Thatch Level: Is there more than 1 cm of spongy layer?
Compaction: Does water pool or run off?
Weeds: Are invasive grasses or broadleaf weeds taking over?
Coverage: Are there large bare patches that need renovation?
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Assess aggressively growing areas that might need more dethatching during renovation.
Buffalo: Look for shady areas where it may be thinning out and plan your renovation accordingly.
Zoysia: Check for thatch, as this grass type is prone to buildup and requires careful renovation.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Examine for patchy growth as these cool-season grasses may require overseeding during renovation.
This assessment will help you tailor your plan for the best results.
If weeds are a problem, apply a suitable herbicide 7–14 days before starting renovation. For broadleaf weeds, use Bow and Arrow, and for grassy weeds like wintergrass or ryegrass, consider Odessa.
Pre-emergent herbicides like Barricade and Spartan are also a great option at this stage to prevent new weeds from germinating, but avoid using them if you plan to overseed as they will stop the new seed from establishing during renovation.
Applying Acelepryn alongside a pre-emergent is an option as it requires one spray application and one watering cycle. Acelepryn will provide protection against lawn grubs such as black beetle larvae.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Very responsive to herbicides and pre-emergents.
Buffalo: Check herbicide labels carefully, as some are not safe for this type.
Zoysia: Use lower rates of herbicide to avoid damage.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Avoid pre-emergents if overseeding with these cool-season grasses.
Lower your mower height gradually over two or three mows to avoid clogging up your mower. Then, scalp the lawn by mowing as low as possible to remove excess leaf material and thatch for renovation.
Bag clippings to prevent smothering
Scalping allows sunlight to reach the soil and promotes new growth as part of the renovation process.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Can be scalped aggressively down to the dirt to promote strong lateral growth.
Buffalo: Do NOT scalp as low; leave more leaf as buffalo stores energy in its stolons and can struggle to recover if scalped too short.
Zoysia: Remove some height but avoid aggressive scalping as it recovers more slowly.
Ryegrass/Fescue: These cool-season grasses are more tolerant than you would think. Rye can take a heavier scalping than fescue.
Use a dethatcher or scarifier to remove the spongy layer of thatch during renovation. For large areas, consider hiring a powered scarifier.
Remove debris and dispose of it properly
Don’t overdo it—leave some healthy grass behind to recover as part of the renovation process.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Handles dethatching well and will bounce back quickly.
Buffalo: Be gentle; buffalo has above-ground stolons that can be damaged.
Zoysia: Scarify and give plenty of recovery time.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Scarifying can be beneficial, but isn't needed as often. Rye can take a deeper scarify than fescue.
Aerate your lawn to relieve soil compaction and improve water and nutrient penetration as part of renovation. A core aerator is ideal for this step.
Focus on high-traffic areas
You can either collect or leave the soil cores on the surface; they’ll break down naturally during renovation.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Aeration will encourage spreading.
Buffalo: Benefits greatly from aeration in compacted soil.
Zoysia: Aerate carefully, as its growth is slower.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Aeration helps improve drainage and reduce compaction for cool-season lawns.
Topdress your lawn with washed river sand or a sand-soil mix to level out low spots and improve soil structure as part of renovation.
Use a lawn level tool to spread the sand evenly
Apply 5–10 mm of material and work it into the surface until grass tips are visible during renovation.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Will grow through topdressing easily.
Buffalo: Avoid burying too much of the leaf.
Zoysia: Apply thin layers to avoid smothering.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Use a finer sandy loam mix for these cool-season grasses.
If your lawn is sparse or has bare areas, overseed with a compatible seed type as part of renovation.
Water lightly and regularly until germination
For warm-season grasses, sprigging can also help fill in gaps quickly during renovation.
Grass-Type Advice:
Couch/Kikuyu: Sprigging works well for quick coverage.
Buffalo: Overseeding is rarely recommended.
Zoysia: Use plugs for better success.
Ryegrass/Fescue: Overseeding is ideal in autumn to thicken these lawns for winter.
Apply a fertiliser like Dominate to encourage root recovery. Two weeks later, switch to liquids:
Use Pure Wetter to improve water penetration.
Water lightly and often for the first 2–3 weeks to keep the surface moist. As the lawn begins to establish, transition to deep, infrequent watering 2–3 times a week to encourage deeper root growth.
As your lawn recovers:
Resume mowing once the grass reaches 5–7 cm
Keep weeds under control
Fertilise every 4–6 weeks during active growth
A: Early spring or early autumn, when temperatures support rapid growth.
A: Yes, but apply a suitable herbicide and wait 7–14 days before starting.
A: Only if there’s more than 1 cm of thatch.
A: Wait until the grass reaches 5–7 cm, then mow lightly with sharp blades.
Assess lawn condition before starting
Treat weeds early with selective herbicides
Pre-emergent is a good option now (avoid if overseeding)
Scalp and dethatch to remove excess material
Aerate and topdress for level, healthy soil
Overseed or sprig bare patches
Fertilise and use wetting agents to support recovery
Water lightly at first, then deep water 2–3 times a week
Resume mowing and ongoing care to maintain progress
A full lawn renovation can seem like a lot of work, but the results are worth it. By following this step-by-step renovation guide and using the right products at the right time, you’ll set your lawn up for years of thick, healthy growth. Ready to get started? Download our Free Lawn Calendar to plan your renovation perfectly.