Lawn Care FAQs

The Lawn Plans give you a 12-month schedule tailored to your grass type (Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia, Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass) and region (cooler vs warmer climates). The Ultimate Lawn Guide eBook covers everything from mowing to renovation, and the Lawn Calendar is a free generic schedule for all grass types.

Yes — the Lawn Tips E-Gift Card ($50–$300), plus Lawn Tips merch: hoodies, t-shirts, caps and bucket hats.

Spring: feed (Dominate), pre-emergent for summer weeds (Spartan), grub prevention (Acelepryn), start monthly Pure Lawn Tips Mix. Summer: wetting agent (Pure Wetter), light liquid feeds, watch for armyworm. Autumn: Proliferate feed, Barricade pre-emergent for Winter Grass, treat bindii early (Bow & Arrow). Winter: colour and resilience (Winter Green Bundle), minimal mowing. Or skip the guesswork — the Lawn Plans lay out all 12 months for your exact grass type and region.

If you've ever stood in the shed wondering what to put down this month, yes. The Lawn Plans ($36.36) give a 12-month schedule tailored to your grass type (Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia, Tall Fescue, Ryegrass) and climate zone, the Ultimate Lawn Guide eBook teaches the why behind everything, and the Lawn Calendar is free if you just want the basics.

For Australian winters we recommend the Winter Green Bundle, which combines the three products your lawn needs in the cooler months: Pure Iron+ for rapid winter green-up without forcing frost-vulnerable growth, Pure Seaweed+ to strengthen roots and improve frost tolerance, and Pure Colour pigment for instant deep-green colour while growth slows. Apply every 4–6 weeks from late autumn through winter (May–August). If Winter Grass (Poa annua) is your problem, apply Barricade Pre-Emergent in autumn before it germinates. All products suit Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia and cool-season lawns.

Use iron rather than pushing nitrogen. Pure Iron+ stimulates chlorophyll production for deep colour in cold weather, and Pure Seaweed+ keeps roots active and frost-tolerant. For instant results, the Winter Green Bundle adds Pure Colour pigment on top.

Spring is feeding season. Start with a complete granular fertiliser — Dominate for most lawns, or Dominate Mini for fine, low-cut turf. Add Pure Balance 15-1-5 liquid fertiliser every 2–4 weeks for steady growth, and Pure Seaweed+ to wake up soil biology. Late winter/early spring is also the time to apply Barricade or Spartan Pre-Emergent to stop summer weeds before they germinate. If growth gets ahead of you, Primo HG Turf Growth Regulator keeps the lawn dense while reducing mowing.

Focus on stress protection and water efficiency. Pure Wetter wetting agent fixes dry patches and helps water penetrate evenly. Pure Seaweed+ improves heat and drought tolerance, and Pure Iron+ maintains colour without excessive growth. Watch for lawn grubs in summer — Acelepryn GR or Acelepryn Turf Insecticide provide season-long grub control. Feed lightly with Pure Balance 15-1-5 rather than heavy granular applications in extreme heat.

Autumn sets your lawn up for winter. Apply Proliferate granular fertiliser (16-2-9) — it's formulated for autumn feeding. Put down Barricade Pre-Emergent in March–May to stop Winter Grass (Poa annua) before it germinates. Follow with Pure Seaweed+ to build root strength and frost tolerance before the cold arrives.

Main feeds: early spring (September) and mid-autumn (March–April) with a granular like Dominate or Proliferate. Top up monthly through the growing season with liquids like Pure Balance 15-1-5. In winter, switch to Pure Iron+ for colour instead of nitrogen. For a full 12-month schedule tailored to your grass type and region, see the Lawn Plans (Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia, Tall Fescue, Ryegrass) or the free Lawn Calendar.

Every 1–2 weeks during the growing season (spring–autumn), less often or not at all through winter when growth slows. The golden rule: never remove more than one third of the leaf in a single mow. If mowing feels relentless in summer, a growth regulator like Primo HG reduces clippings by 20–50% while making the lawn denser and darker.

Most Australian home lawns do best at 25–50mm. Buffalo prefers the higher end (40–50mm), Couch and Zoysia tolerate lower cuts, and Kikuyu sits in the middle. Mowing too short ("scalping") is one of the most common causes of a stressed, weed-prone lawn. Raise the cutting height in summer heat and in shade.

Deeply and infrequently — 1–2 times a week in summer rather than a light sprinkle daily. Deep watering trains roots downward and builds drought tolerance. If water pools, runs off, or certain patches stay dry no matter what, the soil is hydrophobic — apply Pure Wetter wetting agent so water actually penetrates the root zone.

Rarely — most Australian lawns need little to no irrigation through winter. Overwatering in the cold invites fungal disease. Focus winter effort on colour and health instead with Pure Iron+ and the Winter Green Bundle.

Mulching returns nitrogen and organic matter to the soil and insulates against evaporation — great for healthy, regularly mown lawns. Catch instead when: the lawn is overgrown (clumps smother grass), you have fungal disease active (spreads spores), weeds are seeding, or you're mowing low. If you mulch, you're recycling roughly a feed's worth of nitrogen a year — but it doesn't replace fertilising.

Yes, but far less often — every 3–6 weeks depending on your climate, and at a higher cut. Growth slows or stops in warm-season lawns, but the occasional tidy-up mow keeps the lawn dense and prevents weeds establishing. Never scalp in winter — the lawn can't recover until spring. Keep colour up with Pure Iron+ or the Winter Green Bundle between mows.

No — frozen leaf blades snap rather than bend, leaving blackened footprints and mower tracks that persist for weeks. Wait until the frost has melted (usually mid-morning). Lawns treated with Pure Seaweed+ through autumn and winter handle frost better thanks to improved cell-level cold tolerance.

Scalping is mowing so low you cut into stems and runners, exposing brown thatch. Accidentally, it's a common cause of patchy lawns. Deliberately, it's a renovation tool: scalping Couch, Kikuyu or Zoysia at the start of spring removes winter thatch and resets the lawn for a dense new season — follow immediately with Proliferate or Dominate, water well, and consider topdressing. Never scalp Buffalo (it grows from above-ground runners) and never scalp in winter.

Pure Iron+ delivers rapid, deep green-up in days. For the full program, the Pure Lawn Tips Mix bundles Pure Balance 15-1-5, Pure Iron+ and Pure Seaweed+ — quick colour, lasting health. In winter, the Winter Green Bundle adds Pure Colour pigment for instant results.

Dominate is our complete granular fertiliser with full macro and micro nutrients, suitable for all lawns. Dominate Mini is the fine-particle version for low-cut, fine turf. For liquid feeding, Pure Balance 15-1-5 delivers complete plant and soil nutrition every 2–4 weeks.

Both have a place. Granulars (Dominate, Dominate Mini, Proliferate) deliver slower, sustained feeding — ideal for main seasonal applications. Liquids (Pure Balance 15-1-5, Pure Iron+, Pure Seaweed+) act fast and give precise control — ideal for regular top-ups and quick corrections. Many customers do granular feeds in spring/autumn plus liquids monthly.

A plant growth regulator (PGR) slows vertical growth and pushes density. Primo HG Turf Growth Regulator is the home-lawn standard; Growth Regulator Astro 120 ME is the same active (trinexapac-ethyl) in a 1L size. Expect up to 50% less mowing and a tighter, darker lawn.

I would recommend proliferate for new seed. Nice balanced NPK too.

For Buffalo Lawns, I recommend using our Dominate Fertiliser. Here are the details:
- Benefits:
- Makes grass greener within days.
- Encourages dense growth to prevent weeds.
- Includes beneficial microbes to build healthier soil.
- Suitable for all lawns, including Buffalo, Couch, and Zoysia.
Application Tips:
- Apply at a rate of 1kg - 2.5kg per 100m² using a fertiliser spreader.
- Water in as soon as possible.
- Re-apply every 3 months for brilliant grass all year.
Make sure to measure the area of your lawn for the best results! If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

For warm-season grass, once the soil temperatures are at 16 degrees. (Or the day temps are consistent in the 20s.)

For cool season grass you can apply when soil temps are as low as 10 degrees and day temps are in the high teens.

Yes, all the fertilisers on our website are dog and pet friendly.

Dominate is the closest replacement, with beneficial microbes included. If you need a smaller granule size, look at Dominate Mini.

Granular fertiliser comes in small pellets or prills and is applied to the soil. It releases nutrients over time, depending on whether it’s quick, slow, or controlled-release.

• Quick-release: Feeds your lawn fast, usually within 2–3 days.
• Slow-release: Provides a steady feed over about 8–12 weeks.
• Controlled-release: Long-term feeding for up to 6 months.

Typically nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), along with other trace nutrients like iron, magnesium, and sulfur.

They represent the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the blend—for example, 20-5-10.

They both have benefits. Granular is ideal for long-term feeding, while liquid gives faster results and is great for regular maintenance.

Yes—if applied too heavily or not watered in properly, especially with quick-release types.

Yes—particularly those with higher nitrogen or added iron will deepen green colour and support stronger growth.

Apply during active growth periods—spring, summer, and early autumn are best.

Not usually—grass slows down in winter. Focus on autumn feeding to prep the lawn beforehand. Liquid fertilisers are a better option for winter.

Fertilise after mowing so the granules land on the soil, not on the cut leaf. You may pick up a lot of the fertiliser if you fertilise before mowing.

Yes—light rain can help wash it in. Avoid heavy downpours that might wash it away.

Only if you can water it in properly. Otherwise, wait for rainfall or irrigation access.

Yes—it’s a great time to fertilise as nutrients can reach deeper into the soil.

Yes—fertilising after topdressing helps encourage fresh growth.

Yes—watering helps activate the nutrients and prevents burning.

A normal irrigation cycle (10-12mm) is enough to settle the granules into the soil.

The granules can sit on the leaf and cause burn or won’t release nutrients properly.

Yes—just make sure to water it in straight away afterwards.

Light rain is perfect. Heavy rain may cause runoff—especially on sloped areas.

Yes—this is not ideal for a larger lawn, just be thorough and even in your coverage.

It’s best to water it in the same day—especially if it’s hot. If you do, water it in early the next morning as dew will start to activate the granules.

Yes—it’s one of the best ways to activate granular fertiliser.

A broadcast or drop spreader gives even results and is ideal for most lawns.

You can but it's not ideal—it’s harder to get even coverage and easy to overdo it. Wear gloves if you do.

Follow the spreader’s instructions and adjust based on your fertiliser’s rate per 100m².

Yes—just clean it well between uses.

Yes—spoon feeding thin areas is totally fine.

Water the area heavily to help flush excess nutrients through the soil.

Yes—once it’s watered in and dry, it’s safe. Always check the label.

Yes—keep it sealed, dry, and stored in a cool place out of direct sun.

Not directly—but it’ll support new growth. You may need to seed or sprig the area as well.

Yes—a starter fertiliser can help new turf establish quickly. You can also apply this after laying the turf.

The Lawn Tips Pure range, manufactured in Australia for Australian lawns: Pure Balance 15-1-5 for complete all-round nutrition, Pure Iron+ for instant deep-green colour, and Pure Seaweed+ for root strength and stress tolerance. Best value is the Pure Lawn Tips Mix, which bundles all three — they tank-mix together into one monthly spray. Safe on every lawn type: Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia, Fescue and Ryegrass.

Spring to autumn: the Pure Lawn Tips Mix (Pure Balance + Pure Iron+ + Pure Seaweed+) — complete monthly nutrition, colour and resilience. Winter: the Winter Green Bundle (Pure Colour + Pure Iron+ + Pure Seaweed+) — colour and frost protection while growth is slow. Got weeds too? The Weed and Feed Bundle pairs Bow & Arrow weed killer with Pure Balance.

Every 2–4 weeks during the growing season (spring–autumn), monthly in winter for colour with Pure Iron+. All Pure products apply at 200–400ml per 100m2 in 4–6L of water, so a 1L bottle covers a typical lawn for several applications.

Yes — they're formulated to tank-mix. Combine all three at 200ml/100m2 each in one sprayer for a single monthly pass. That's exactly what the Pure Lawn Tips Mix bundle is for.

A simple pressure sprayer or backpack sprayer is all you need — mix 200–400ml per 100m2 into 4–6L of water and spray evenly. For larger lawns, a battery backpack like the Solo 414 Li (10L) or Solo 441 Li (16L) makes it effortless, and the Solo 2 nozzle mini boom doubles your coverage per pass.

Early morning or late afternoon, avoiding the heat of the day so the spray doesn't evaporate or burn. Avoid spraying right before heavy rain (it can wash foliar feed off the leaf) — light dew or irrigation afterwards is fine for soil-targeted products like Pure Seaweed+.

Used at label rates, the Pure range is very low-burn-risk — much gentler than over-applied granular fertiliser. Pure Balance uses organic inputs (humic acids, fish emulsion, seaweed extract) for gentle, steady feeding. Just don't exceed the recommended rate, and avoid spraying in extreme midday heat.

Yes on all three. The Pure range is safe on all Australian lawn types including Buffalo (Sir Walter), Couch (TifTuf), Kikuyu and Zoysia. Once the spray has dried, lawns are safe for kids and pets. On new turf, Pure Seaweed+ actively speeds root establishment — pair it with Proliferate granular at install.

Pure Seaweed+ liquid kelp is the health insurance of lawn care: natural growth hormones, trace elements and organic compounds that drive deep root growth, boost soil microbes, and harden turf against drought, heat, frost and wear. Lawns fed seaweed bounce back faster from everything — summer heatwaves, winter frosts, kids and dogs. Use year-round.

Pure Balance 15-1-5 is the meal — complete NPK nutrition with humic acids and fish emulsion. Pure Iron+ is the colour — iron and manganese for rapid, deep green-up. Pure Seaweed+ is the conditioning — roots, soil biology and stress tolerance. Together (the Pure Lawn Tips Mix) they cover feeding, colour and resilience in one monthly spray.

If you've fed nitrogen and the lawn is still pale, the missing piece is usually iron — especially in alkaline or sandy soils where iron locks up. Pure Iron+ fixes iron-deficiency yellowing within days. If fertiliser seems to do nothing at all, check pH (correct with Lime Greens Grade) and water penetration (Pure Wetter) — locked-up soil wastes every dollar you spend on fertiliser.

Yes — the Pure range is manufactured in Australia and formulated for Australian lawns, conditions and grass types.

We recommend using 4L of water/100m2 before adding your product. This will allow you to spray the lawn in two directions and get even coverage. With liquid fertilisers, you don't need to water in.

I have a free lawn calendar now available with all this information: lawntips.net/products/lawn-calendar
We recommend using granular every 8-12 weeks during the growing season and liquids monthly throughout the year.
Dominate is a great granular fertiliser: lawntips.net/products/dominate
Our Lawn Tips mix is a great organic year-round fertiliser option: lawntips.net/products/pure-lawn-tips-mix

Liquid fertiliser works faster and is absorbed through both the leaf and roots. Granular is slower-release and lasts longer.

Not better—just different. Liquid is great for quick results and regular feeding, while granular is ideal for long-term nutrition.

Usually within 24–48 hours you’ll start seeing colour response, especially with nitrogen or iron-based liquids.

Most can be applied every 2–4 weeks during the growing season, depending on your lawn’s needs.

Yes—just reduce frequency in winter when growth slows down.

Usually not—especially foliar ones. Let it sit on the leaf for a few hours before watering or rain. Check the label as this may differ with each product.

Yes—many are designed to be tank-mixed. Just check compatibility or do a jar test first.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, trace elements, and sometimes extras like seaweed or amino acids.

A backpack, knapsack, or hose-end sprayer works well. Choose one that suits your lawn size and comfort level

Most go on at 200–500ml per 100m², depending on the product’s concentration. check the product label for application rates.

Avoid the heat of the day. Early morning or late afternoon is best for foliar absorption.

Wait at least 24 hours to allow the fertiliser to fully absorb into the leaf.

It provides a faster uptake of nutrients through the leaf for a quick visual response.

Some, especially those containing iron, can stain. Rinse off immediately if spilled.

Mix your intended products with water in a clear jar. If it stays smooth and doesn’t separate or clump, you’re good to go.

Many do—iron, manganese, zinc, and magnesium are common.

Yes—always shake well before mixing to ensure even distribution of nutrients.

Most are, but always check the label for grass-type compatibility

Yes—just go easy with lower rates and use products suited for root development.

Yes—regular feeding encourages dense, lateral growth.

Most can be used more broadly, but always check the label for compatibility.

You may see tip burn or discolouration. Water the area well and avoid adding more for a few weeks.

We have 1L, 4L and 10L sizes for theses products

The shelf life of our products typically ranges from 5-7 years when stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Be sure to check the product labels for specific expiration dates and storage instructions to ensure the best results.

No, you don't need a chemical certificate to use any of the products listed on our website unless you are using them commercially for customers.

We recommend mowing 24 hours after product applications. Feel free to mow before any product application though apart from PRIMO MAXX

I have created a calendar to help you determine what products will suit your lawn:
lawntips.net/products/lawn-calendar

Yes! All of our products are safe around your kids and pets.
We recommend after applying the product, don't let anyone enter the area until it's dried on the leaf.

I have created a Free calendar to help you understand when to apply products to your lawn. lawntips.net/products/lawn-calendar

The best fertiliser leading into winter would be some proliferate. Proliferate is designed to help get your lawn ready for the cooler temperatures over winter and make it healthy before winter even hits.

The recommended mixing rate is 200ml-400ml per 100m2 for each product in 4-8 L of water.

No, you can add the amount of product you need in the amount of water recommended for one product. However you would need to use the higher amount of water from whichever products you are using.eg. a herbicide may recommend using in at least 6L of water and a fertiliser says to use 4L, use the 6L for both products.

200ml-400ml per 100m2 in 4-8L of water.

200ml-400ml per 100m2 in 4-8L of water.

200ml-400ml per 100 metres squared in 4-8L of water.

200ml-400ml per 100m2 in 4-8L of water. Irrigate with atleast 6-10mm of water.

On a green lawn 12-24ml/100m2 in 4-6L of Water
On a Brown/Dormant lawn 50ml/100m2 in 4-6L of Water

Sure is. It’s organic and safe for couch, kikuyu, buffalo, and more.

Use Pure Balance any time of year for steady growth and soil health, especially after stress like heat or wear.

Bow and Arrow is safe on all established grass types. However, due to the residual effect of diflufenican in Bow and Arrow, overseeding treated areas within 3 months may inhibit turf establishment. So, caution is recommended when using Bow and Arrow on or before planting grass seed.

The application rate for the Gypsum on our website is 10kg per 100m2.

Bow & Arrow Herbicide is our most popular selective weed killer — it controls clover, bindii, and other broadleaf weeds without harming your lawn. The Weed and Feed Bundle pairs Bow & Arrow with Pure Balance fertiliser to kill weeds and feed the lawn in one go. Dicamba M is another selective broadleaf option. Always check the label for your grass type — some herbicides need care on Buffalo.

Tempra 750 WG kills nutgrass and Mullumbimby couch while being gentle on your lawn. For professional users, Monument Herbicide controls sedges, grasses and broadleaf weeds (not for home garden use).

Glyphosate 360 kills all plants it touches — use it to spray out an old lawn before renovation. It is non-selective, so never use it as a lawn weed killer. After spraying out, re-establish with Turbocote Couch Lawn Seed, Turbocote Kikuyu Seed, or Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend, and feed new turf with Proliferate.

Prevention beats cure: apply Barricade or Spartan Pre-Emergent in autumn (March–May) before the seed germinates — one application gives up to 6 months of protection. Once winter grass is established, pre-emergents won't kill it; hand-pull small outbreaks and mark your calendar for next autumn.

Treat in winter to early spring, while bindii is young and BEFORE it sets its painful seed — by the time you feel prickles underfoot it has already seeded. Bow & Arrow Herbicide controls bindii, clover and other broadleaf weeds and is safe on Buffalo, Couch and Kikuyu. The Weed and Feed Bundle adds Pure Balance fertiliser so the lawn fills in as weeds die.

Clover thrives in underfed lawns (it makes its own nitrogen, your grass can't). Spray with Bow & Arrow, then feed regularly with Dominate or Pure Balance 15-1-5 so dense, well-fed turf crowds clover out for good.

Apply Barricade or Spartan Pre-Emergent in late winter/early spring before soil temperatures rise and the seed germinates. Established summer grass is hard to kill selectively, so the pre-emergent window matters.

This is one of the trickiest lawn problems — there's no fully selective spray that removes couch or kikuyu from buffalo without risk. Spot-treat invaders carefully with Glyphosate 360 (it kills everything it touches, so paint or shield-spray), then repair the area. Keeping buffalo thick with regular feeding is the best defence.

Pre-emergents (Barricade, Spartan) form a soil barrier that stops weed seeds establishing — apply BEFORE weeds appear, timed to autumn (winter grass) or spring (summer weeds). Post-emergents (Bow & Arrow, Dicamba M, Tempra) kill weeds that are already growing. A good program uses both.

The hose-on and granular weed'n'feeds get a deservedly bad rap — weak herbicide rates, poor-quality fertiliser, patchy results. A liquid system is different: our Weed and Feed Bundle pairs Bow & Arrow (the professional 3-active broadleaf herbicide at full label rate) with Pure Balance 15-1-5 (a genuine premium fertiliser). Same convenience, but each product does its job properly. Spray weeds, feed the lawn, done.

Bow and Arrow is applied at 50ml/100m2 mixed in 3-5L of water. (Depends on how much water you use to get over 100m2)

You can apply bow and arrow at any time of the year. It will take longer for weeds to die in the winter due to cooler temperatures.

The best control for Crowsfoot is prevention — apply Spartan or Barricade in Spring to stop Crowsfoot from germinating, and keep your couch thick and well-fed so it crowds out any survivors.

24 hours is the amount of time you need to leave between herbicide and fertiliser. If you apply the same day, it will be fine, but leaving 24 hours is that granular fertilisers need to be watered in, and herbicides need to dry on the leaf without water for 24 hours. If you are applying liquid fertilisers, feel free to apply them on the same day has herbicides.

You can use a specialist weed killer like Monument to get rid of ryegrass from couch grass. These products are designed for use on couch lawns and selectively remove unwanted cool-season grasses, including ryegrass.
Follow the application instructions carefully for the best results. If you need more detailed guidance on using Monument or have other questions, feel free to ask!

Unfortunately, there is no selective herbicide to remove Kikuyu from Tall Fescue. You must either paint the Kikuyu with glyphosate or pull it out.

You can put down seed or turf the following day after applying glyphosate (roundup). There is no residual left from this application.

Allow the herbicide to be on the lawn for at least 6 hours after application. Ideally, allow 24 hours if possible.

Yes, you can use herbicides at any time of year, and it doesn't matter if you've had frost or cold weather around. Just be aware it will take longer for the weeds to die out due to the cooler temperatures.

Wintergrass (Poa annua) can be a tricky weed to manage in Fescue, ryegrass and KBG lawns because there isn’t a selective herbicide that targets wintergrass without harming the Fescue. The best approach to control wintergrass is through a pre-emergent program.

To control wintergrass (Poa annua) after it has emerged, you can use post-emergent herbicides. Here are some recommended products:
1. **Monument**: These are also suitable for controlling wintergrass and other difficult weeds. Again, ensure your lawn is compatible with these products. (this isn't safe of Buffalo, Kikuyu or Cool Season Lawns)
For the best results, be sure to follow the label instructions for application rates and methods. If you have any more questions, just let me know!

It's best to leave any herbicide that isn't a pre-emergent on the leaf for 24 hours for the best results

No, it can't. It will kill the buffalo or Kikuyu grass

Bow and Arrow is a great option for Buffalo.
If you have broadleaf weeds, choose Bow and Arrow.
lawntips.net/collections/herbicides

You’ll usually see results in 7–14 days, depending on the product and weather conditions. Read the product label for more specific information.

Selective herbicides target weeds and leave your grass alone. Non-selective ones (like glyphosate) kill everything they touch.

Water the area well and avoid further stress (like mowing or fertilising) for a couple of weeks. Monitor closely.

A herbicide is a product designed to control or kill unwanted plants (weeds). In lawn care, herbicides help remove weeds without damaging your turf when used correctly.

No—always choose a herbicide that’s safe for your grass type (e.g. couch, buffalo, kikuyu). Using the wrong one can damage or kill your lawn.

You can apply herbicide any time of year, when certain weeds are actively growing. Avoid spraying herbicide when your lawn is under stress.

Avoid mowing right before applying herbicide. It’s best to apply 2–3 days after mowing and wait another 2–3 days after spraying before mowing again. This allows the herbicide to be absorbed properly. It also allows for a larger area for the herbicide to be taken up on the weeds leaf before it is cut.

No—for most post-emergent herbicides, you don’t water in. They need to sit on the weed leaf for a few hours (or longer) to be absorbed. Always check the label instructions.

If it rains within a few hours of spraying, the herbicide may wash off and reduce effectiveness. Most products need at least 4–6 hours of dry time.

Not if you use a product that’s safe for your grass type and apply it correctly. But using the wrong herbicide can damage or discolour your lawn.

Post-emergents are designed to kill weeds that have already germinated and are growing. They work by being absorbed through the leaf or root system.

Use a calibrated sprayer and apply on a calm, dry day with no wind. Wear gloves, protective clothing, and avoid overspray onto garden beds or hard surfaces.

Wait until the product has dried before walking on it—usually a few hours. This ensures better absorption and avoids tracking it to other areas.

Yes—but only certain herbicides are safe for buffalo. Some common products can damage it, so always check the label before applying.

Possible reasons include incorrect mixing, spraying too soon after mowing, rain shortly after application, or treating mature weeds past their vulnerable stage. Sometimes herbicides need a second application to work effectively.

Yes, but avoid spraying during very hot days (above 30°C), as this can stress your lawn and reduce effectiveness. Early morning or late afternoon is best.

Yes, especially if your lawn is dry. A lightly hydrated lawn will absorb herbicide more effectively. Just make sure it’s not saturated.

Only if the label specifically allows it. Mixing different herbicides can be risky and may reduce effectiveness or damage your lawn.

No—herbicides are designed for vascular plants (like weeds). Moss and algae require specific products like moss killers or cultural practices to reduce shade and moisture.

Spot-spraying targets individual weeds or patches instead of the whole lawn. It’s ideal when the weed pressure is low and you don’t need a blanket spray.

Use a measuring wheel, tape, or online mapping tools. Knowing your exact lawn size ensures you mix and apply the right amount of product.

Keep herbicides in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, kids, and pets. Always store in their original containers with labels intact. Store on shelving off the ground.

Use the mix on the same day for best results. Don’t store pre-mixed herbicide—it can degrade or settle and cause uneven results later.

Yes—even a light breeze can cause drift, which may damage nearby plants. Always spray on calm days and use low pressure and coarser mist nozzles for better control.

Yes—check the label for expiry dates. An old product may lose effectiveness or behave unpredictably.

Yes—some herbicides target specific grass weeds like paspalum or summer grass, but they must be carefully chosen to avoid harming your lawn grass.

Check the label—every herbicide lists the weeds it controls. If you’re unsure, take a photo of the weed and ask for help before spraying.

Systemic herbicides are absorbed into the plant and kill from the inside out (good for deep-rooted weeds). Contact herbicides only kill what they touch, so are better for young, shallow weeds.

Early morning or late afternoon is best in Summer. Avoid spraying in the middle of the day, especially in hot weather, to prevent lawn stress.

They can—especially with overuse of the same product. Rotate herbicides and include cultural practices like mowing and feeding for long-term control. Also, stay at the rate that the label suggests.

Yes—but wait at least 1–3 weeks before reapplying, and make sure you’ve followed the correct rate and timing. Follow the label for application spacing.

It helps! Adding a turf dye can show you where you’ve sprayed, reducing overlaps or missed spots. This is particularly helpful when spot-spraying large areas.

They may not have absorbed enough product, or they could be perennial weeds that need repeat treatments. Root-based weeds can regrow if not fully killed.

If weed pressure is high, a blanket spray is best. For smaller issues, spot spraying is more efficient and reduces stress on the lawn.

Use only herbicides labelled safe for buffalo. Many broadleaf weed killers are not safe for buffalo, so double-check before spraying. Bow and Arrow herbicide is safe on all grass types!

Weeds with thinner leaves (like bindii or clover) absorb herbicides faster. Tougher weeds with waxy or thick leaves may take longer to react.

Due to residual effects of diflufenican over-seeding treated areas within 3 months of application may inhibit establishment of the turf grass

You sure can. Will give you better results due to the wetting agent helping distribute the pre-emergent more evenly into the soil.

wintergrass, paspalum, summergrass (crabgrass), crowsfoot, oxalis and other broadleaf weeds.

No, you can't. Spartan and Barricade will prevent your new seed from germinating.

You can apply it straight after a mow.

Yes, you can use a pre-emergent like Spartan and Barricade on Perennial Ryegrass

Yes, Barricade and Spartan will be safe on Fescue, Ryegrass and Kentucky Bluegrass.

Yes, you can safely use pre-emergent in garden beds. Just be aware that shallow-rooted plants like roses can have issues with pre-emergent. Avoid spraying near shallow-rooted plants.

Spartan is a great alternative. It has the same active but is a smaller size.

Unfortunately, you can't use pre-emergents like spartan on Bentgrass. It will stunt it and potentially kill it.

Unfortunately, you can’t overseed right away. You’ll need to wait up to 6 months, as the pre-emergent will prevent any newly sown seeds from growing.

Yes! You sure can.

Crabgrass can be a persistent weed in lawns, but you can effectively manage and prevent it with proper treatment. Here’s how:

1. Pre-Emergent Program:

• Timing: Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in late winter to early spring, specifically around late August to September. This is the best time to prevent crabgrass seeds from germinating, as soil temperatures rise to around 13°C.
• Product Selection: Choose a pre-emergent herbicide labelled for crabgrass control. Standard options include products containing prodiamine like Barricade and Spartan

Wintergrass, or Poa Annua, can be challenging to manage in your lawn. Here’s a guide to help you control and prevent wintergrass:

1. Pre-Emergent Program:
• Timing: Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early autumn (around late February to early March) and again in early spring (before soil temperatures reach 13°C ). This prevents wintergrass seeds from germinating.
• Product Options: Choose a pre-emergent herbicide suitable for your grass type. Follow the label instructions for application rates and methods.

2. Post-Emergent Treatment:
• If wintergrass is already present, use a post-emergent herbicide to target it directly. Here are some recommended products:
• Monument: Suitable for controlling wintergrass and other difficult weeds. Make sure your lawn is compatible with this product.

lawntips.net/collections/pre-emergents

Spring Application:

Timing: Apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring, just before soil temperatures reach 13°C. This timing is crucial to prevent weed seeds, such as crabgrass, from germinating. Monitor soil temperatures and apply as soon as they begin to rise.
Or keep an eye out for trees blossoming. This is a great way to time your application. (Apply middle of August if you still aren't sure

This can be applied before your lawn renovations and won't have any effect on how the product works.

Autumn Application:

Timing: A second application in early autumn, typically around late February to early March, helps prevent winter annual weeds like Poa annua from germinating. This is especially important for maintaining a weed-free lawn through the cooler months.

In early spring, use a pre-emergent herbicide like Spartan lawntips.net/products/spartan-pre-emergent to prevent weed seeds from germinating. For existing weeds, use a post-emergent herbicide like Bow and Arrow: lawntips.net/products/bow-and-arrow or hand-pull them. Regular mowing and maintaining a healthy lawn can also reduce weed growth.

A pre-emergent herbicide stops weed seeds from germinating by creating a barrier in the soil. It prevents new weeds from growing but won’t kill existing ones.

It forms a chemical layer just under the soil surface that disrupts the growth process when weed seeds start to sprout.

No—it only prevents new ones from germinating. For existing weeds, you’ll need a post-emergent herbicide.

Yes—when applied correctly and used on established lawns. Always check the label to ensure it’s safe for your grass type.

Apply just before weed seeds start to germinate. In Australia, that means:

• Late Winter–Early Spring: to prevent summer weeds
• Late Summer–Early Autumn: to prevent winter weeds

Twice a year is ideal—once in spring and once in autumn to cover both weed seasons. This also depends on what pre-emergent you are using.

Some Products last around 8–12 weeks. Some controlled-release formulations can last up to 4-6 months.

Yes—watering in is essential. Light irrigation helps move the product into the soil to form the barrier that stops weed seeds from germinating.

No—wait until the lawn is fully established (around 3–6 months) before applying pre-emergent. There are some pre-emergent/fertiliser mixes that you can apply to new turf, but won't last as long as other pre-emergents.

No—it will stop your grass seed from germinating. Wait until the lawn is fully established before applying.

Possible causes: applied too late, didn’t water in properly, used the wrong product, or missed some spots during application. Wrong application rate for a specific weed. Some weeds like paspalum need a different rate compared to common broadleaf weeds.

Yes—but only if you’re not planning to seed the area for several months. It will prevent anything (including grass seed) from germinating.

Acelepryn Turf Insecticide (liquid) or Acelepryn GR (granular) provide long-lasting control of lawn grubs, African Black Beetle, Argentine Stem Weevil and billbugs — one application can protect for the season. Fortune Ultra (bifenthrin) is a broad-spectrum alternative, and Monarch G is a granular systemic option that also controls ants.

Telltale signs: brown patches that spread fast in summer, turf that peels up like carpet (roots eaten), increased bird activity on the lawn, and moths flying up when you mow. Confirm with the bucket-of-soapy-water test — grubs surface within minutes. Treat with Acelepryn Turf Insecticide or Acelepryn GR; for fast knockdown of active armyworm, use Fortune Ultra.

Acelepryn is recognised for its low toxicity to humans, pets and beneficial insects like bees and earthworms, and is safe when used as directed — apply, water in, and let the lawn dry before letting pets back on.

Mushrooms feed on decaying organic matter (old roots, buried timber, thatch) and pop up in damp, shaded conditions. They're mostly harmless — mow them off, improve drainage, aerate, and reduce overwatering. If they appear in rings with discoloured grass (fairy ring), treat with a systemic fungicide like Impala.

Use a miticide that can be used to get on top of couch mite.

To control black beetles in your lawn, use Acelepryn as a preventative treatment and a product with Bifenthrin for knockdown control. Acelepryn offers long-lasting protection against beetle larvae when applied early in the season. If beetle activity is already present, use a product with Bifenthrin for quick and effective knockdown. Apply both products according to the label instructions for best results.

Yes, you can apply these products together.

Acelepryn should be applied twice a year for full-year protection against African Black Beetle—once at the beginning of spring (around August–September) and again six months later. This ensures ongoing control and stops new generations of grubs before they cause damage.

For African Black Beetle, Argentine Scarab, Tasmanian grass grub, New Zealand grass grub, Crane Fly Larvae/ leather jackets, Argentine Stem Weevil Larvae and Billbug Larvae water Acelepryn in straight away for it to bind to the soil and work effectively.

For Caterpillars including; Armyworm Caterpillars, Greasy Cutworm, Sod Webworm and Porina, Acelepryn can also be used as a knockdown treatment when the pest is first seen. In this case, it’s important to leave it on the leaf for 24 hours before watering in. Keep in mind, this is not a preventative treatment for catipillars—only a knockdown once activity is spotted.

Grubs can cause significant damage to your lawn by feeding on the grassroots, leading to brown patches and weakened turf. To effectively manage and prevent grubs, consider the following steps:

1. Prevention: Acelepryn
Apply Acelepryn in early spring to prevent grubs from becoming a problem later in the season. Acelepryn is a long-lasting, low-toxicity insecticide that targets young grubs and other pests before they can cause damage. It’s safe for beneficial insects and poses minimal risk to the environment.
2. Knockdown: Bifenthrin
If you already have a grub infestation, use a product with Bifenthrin as the active as a knockdown treatment. This product acts quickly to reduce the grub population and minimise further damage. Please apply it according to the label instructions.

Grub control here: lawntips.net/collections/insect-control

African black beetle larvae (grubs), sod webworm, curl grubs, and lawn army caterpillars are the most common turf pests. Also spider mite and couch mite

Grubs are the larvae of beetles (like African black beetles). They live in the soil and feed on grass roots, causing patchy damage.

They feed on the leaf blades of the grass, often overnight. They can chew through large areas in a short time.

Curl grubs feed underground on roots, while armyworms feed above ground on the leaf. Armyworm damage often appears faster.

Use the “wet towel test” — soak an old towel in water, place it over the lawn overnight, and check underneath in the morning for grubs or caterpillars. Another way is to do a soapy water test;

Step 1. Source a 20ltr bucket or something similar fill with water and add a good helping of dish washing liquid.
Step 2. Mix the water and dish detergent by hand to ensure it is thoroughly mixed and bubbles appear.
Step 3. Head to the area where the damage is present and slowly pour the mixture over the affected area as well as the surrounding healthy turf surrounding the area.
Step 4. Allow the detergent and water to saturate the thatch layer and soil profile and wait approximately 5 to 10 minutes for the chewing pests to emerge. If you get a result this is confirmation that you have lawn grubs.
Note. Repeating this process several times in different areas of the lawn is also beneficial to ascertain the extent of the infestation and population of the chewing pests you may have.

They’re likely feeding on grubs or caterpillars. It’s often a sign you’ve got an insect problem beneath the surface.

Most are active in the warmer months — late spring to early autumn. Some like armyworm are most aggressive in summer.

Use a lawn insecticide with active ingredients like chlorantraniliprole or bifenthrin. Water in well after application, unless treating for lawn armyworm.

Yes—preventative insecticides can stop grubs before they start feeding. Apply in spring for best results.

Yes—just wait a few weeks after laying so the roots are established. Use lower rates if unsure.

Yes—grubs and caterpillars move fast. Treat the full lawn to prevent the infestation spreading.

Preventative applications are a good idea in known grub-prone areas, especially if you’ve had issues in past seasons.

It usually starts as patchy, ragged leaf edges, then turns to bare areas overnight as the caterpillars chew through the grass.

Very fast—they can strip large sections overnight. That’s why early detection and treatment is critical.

Yes—especially if they’ve laid eggs in nearby areas. Follow up with a second application if needed 7–10 days later.

Yes—many lawn pests follow seasonal life cycles. That’s why regular monitoring and preventative control is important.

You’ll notice a stop in damage within a few days. You may also see dead grubs or caterpillars on the surface after watering in.

Contact insecticides kill on contact (ideal for visible pests). Systemics are absorbed by the plant and kill pests when they feed.

Yes—grubs love fresh soil. Keep an eye on new turf especially in summer and treat early if needed.

Inspect your lawn regularly, watch for signs like bird activity or discolouration, and treat early before pests get out of control. Preventative insecticide in spring or early summer is a great insurance policy.

Lawn mites are tiny sap-sucking pests, most commonly Couch Mite and spider mite, that feed on turfgrass, especially couch and Kikuyu. They’re hard to see with the naked eye but can cause major damage over time.

Irrigate regularly (2–3 times per week) to raise humidity.
• Avoid mowing too low.
• Minimise lawn stress with good fertiliser and watering practices.
• Scarify couch grass occasionally to reduce mite hiding spots.

Yes—heavy infestations of either mite can cause significant damage or dieback, especially if the lawn is already stressed or under-watered.

Both Spider Mites and Couch Mites thrive in hot, dry, drought-like conditions, especially when lawns are under stress or lacking irrigation.

Silvering or bleached grass, usually forming in ring-shaped patches, often with fine webbing seen in the early morning.

Stunted growth and tight bunching of leaves at the nodes, often described as a witches’ broom effect. The lawn may appear uneven and fail to spread normally.

Use a miticide with the active ingredient Abamectin. It’s effective on both mite types and safe for couch, kikuyu, buffalo, zoysia, and ryegrass.

For fungal diseases like Brown Patch, Dollar Spot, Anthracnose and Grey Leaf Spot, use a lawn fungicide: Chlortan (broad-spectrum contact), Tribeca (dual-active systemic), or Impala (broad-spectrum systemic). Fungal pressure is highest in humid weather and autumn — rotate actives to avoid resistance. Note: brown patches can also be dry spots (see wetting agents) or grub damage, so check the cause first.

You can use a product with iron sulphate to help get rid of moss and algae.

Fairy ring is a common lawn problem caused by various types of fungi. These fungi can create rings or arcs of mushrooms, lush green grass, or dead grass. To manage and reduce fairy rings, you can follow these steps:

1. Cultural Practices:
• Aeration: Regularly aerate your lawn to improve soil drainage and reduce soil compaction. This helps prevent the conditions that favour fairy ring fungi.
• Mowing: Mow your lawn at the proper height for your grass type. To reduce stress on the lawn, avoid cutting more than one-third of the grass height at a time.
• Watering: Water your lawn deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth. Avoid frequent shallow watering, which can encourage fungal growth.
• Fertilisation: Apply a balanced fertiliser to promote healthy grass growth. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can exacerbate the problem.
3. Fungicide Application:
• Select a Fungicide: Choose a fungicide labeled for use on fairy ring like Impala lawntips.net/products/impala

Maintain proper mowing, watering, and fertilisation practices. Avoid watering in the evening and ensure good air circulation. If diseases occur, treat with appropriate fungicides.
Chlortan is excellent to treat current diseases: lawntips.net/products/chlortan
Impala is great for prevention: lawntips.net/products/impala

Brown patches can be caused by various factors, including drought, overwatering, pests, diseases, or nutrient deficiencies. Proper watering, mowing, and fertilisation can help prevent them.
Send us a photo at help@lawntips.net, and we can assist you further.

Look for signs like discoloured patches, white powder, slimy areas, or rapid die-off in certain spots. It often looks like the lawn is struggling in just one area.

Too much moisture, high humidity, poor drainage, overwatering, and low air circulation are all common triggers.

Dollar spot, brown patch, pythium, fusarium and fairy ring are the usual suspects.

Small round patches of dead grass (about the size of a dollar coin) that can merge together. Often has a bleached or straw-like appearance

Brown patch shows up in warm, humid conditions. It looks like circular patches of brown or thinning turf, especially in the morning when it’s damp.

That could be powdery mildew or early pythium. It usually shows up in shaded, damp areas.

Yes, fungal spores can spread via mowers, shoes, or water movement. That’s why early treatment is key.

It can. Avoid mowing a diseased lawn when it’s wet, and clean your mower if you’ve cut infected areas.

Use a registered fungicide, apply early in the day, and follow label directions. Avoid watering at night and reduce thatch buildup

Yes—improve drainage, avoid overwatering, mow at the correct height, and don’t overfeed with nitrogen in humid conditions.

Water early in the morning only, and avoid heavy, frequent watering. Let the soil dry out a little between watering.

Sometimes, if conditions change (e.g. drier weather), but often it needs treatment and better lawn practices to fully recover.

Recurring issues are often linked to drainage problems, too much thatch, shade, or consistently poor airflow. It’s a sign something in the lawn’s environment needs fixing.

Apply at the first sign of disease, or proactively during high-risk periods—usually spring and summer for warm-season grasses.

Over-applying nitrogen can promote soft, lush growth that’s more susceptible to fungus, especially in humid weather.

Yes, if it improves drainage and levels out areas where water pools. Avoid heavy topdressing when the lawn is actively infected.

Keep your lawn healthy year-round—mow regularly, water wisely, aerate, avoid excess nitrogen, and apply fungicide preventatively if needed.

Diseases usually create patterns or patches, while stress is more uniform and caused by drought, compaction, or heat.

Yes—couch, kikuyu, and buffalo can all get disease, but some are more prone to certain issues than others.

Yes—high humidity is the perfect environment for fungus to thrive, especially overnight when the lawn stays damp

Yes—lawns in shady, damp areas with poor drainage or heavy thatch are more likely to get fungal issues.

Usually summer, when warmth and humidity combine, but spring can also bring issues during periods of rain.

It doesn’t directly cause it, but it creates damp conditions where fungus thrives. Water early morning instead.

Lightly and only when needed—avoid excess moisture.

Definitely—water pooling leads to perfect conditions for lawn diseases.

Yes—pruning nearby plants and mowing regularly helps dry out the turf faster and reduces risk.

Yes—shaded turf takes longer to dry out and is more prone to disease.

Dew keeps the lawn moist for long periods, especially overnight—ideal for fungal growth.

Absolutely—wet, saturated soil is a major trigger.

Check the label—most allow reapplication every 14 to 21 days if needed.

Depends—some fungicides are foliar (leave on the leaf), while others need to be watered in. Follow the label. This also depends on what you are treating for, most root diseases (ERI) are watered in and need to be used as a preventative.

If you’ve had issues before, yes—especially in warm, wet months.

Sometimes, but always check compatibility on the label or do a jar test first.

Sometimes, but tough outbreaks may need multiple applications and improved lawn practices.

Seaweed and kelp products can support plant health but won’t kill fungus

Yes—but only products that specify they’re safe for buffalo. Always double-check the label.

Identify the disease type first. Then choose a product that targets it. You can email us for help if you’re not sure.

Anywhere from 7 to 21 days depending on the disease, weather, and treatment used.

Yes—wait a week or two after fungicide, then feed lightly to support recovery.

Absolutely—it improves drainage, air flow, and reduces compaction.

Yes—scalping stresses the turf and exposes it to more disease pressure.

In most cases, let them recover naturally after treatment unless it’s a severe die-off.

That’s often brown patch, dollar spot, or fairy ring—all fungal-related.

Could be a fungal issue, or a nutrient deficiency. Check the roots and moisture levels to be sure.

Likely pythium or early signs of dollar spot. Treat quickly before it spreads.

Yes—clay soils that hold water are more prone than sandy, free-draining ones.

Yes—some pathogens attack roots first, leading to top growth symptoms later.

Yes—removing clippings can reduce spore spread during an outbreak.

Leaf spot shows up as spots on individual blades. Brown patch creates circular patches in the lawn.

Send us a photo via email, we’re happy to help.

Your soil has likely become hydrophobic (water-repellent). Pure Wetter wetting agent breaks surface tension so water soaks in evenly instead of running off. Apply through spring and summer, watering in after application.

Gypsum Greens Grade breaks up clay and improves soil structure without changing pH. Pair with Pure Seaweed+ to boost microbial activity and root growth.

If your soil is acidic (pH below ~5.5), Lime Greens Grade raises pH and remineralises tired soils. A soil test is the best way to confirm before applying.

A cheap pH test kit (hardware store) on a few soil samples tells you in minutes. Most lawn grasses want pH 5.5–7. Below that range, nutrients lock up and fertiliser is wasted — correct with Lime Greens Grade. High pH (alkaline) commonly causes iron deficiency and a pale lawn even after feeding — counter it with Pure Iron+. Testing pH first is the single best $15 you can spend before buying anything else.

Yes, you sure can! I recommend you do this anyway. It will distribute the pre-emergent into your soil more evenly because it breaks the surface tension. Make sure to water in straight away.

Yes, you will need to water in a wetting agent, so it gets into the soil and won't burn your lawn.

A wetting agent helps water absorb evenly into the soil rather than running off or pooling. It breaks through the waxy coatings on hydrophobic (water-repelling) soils.

It reduces the surface tension of water, allowing it to soak into the soil more efficiently and reach the root zone.

Your soil may be water-repellent (hydrophobic). A wetting agent can help water soak in instead of running off or pooling.

Dry conditions, thatch build-up, sandy soils, and organic matter breakdown can all contribute to water repellency.

Wetting agents are a type of surfactant designed specifically for soil. Surfactants can also be used to help sprays stick to foliage.

• Better water absorption
• Improved root hydration
• Less dry patch
• More efficient irrigation
• Reduced water bills

Indirectly, yes. By helping water reach the roots, your grass stays healthier and greener — especially during dry periods.

Absolutely. They help water penetrate dry soils more effectively, making the most of limited irrigation or rainfall.

Yes—wetting agents are one of the best treatments for stubborn dry spots that don’t respond to watering.

Yes—it’s a good way to make the most of upcoming rainfall by helping it soak in better.

You’ll usually see improvement in water absorption instantly, if not within a day or two after application.

Early morning or late afternoon to avoid heat stress. Apply before a watering or rain event if possible.

Yes, applying water in products like wetting agents, seaweed and pre-emergents can be done in one spray. Make sure to do a jar test when mixing products together to check if products react.

Yes—they’re helpful on clay, loam, and especially sandy soils that struggle with water retention.

Yes—by ensuring water and nutrients are consistently reaching the root zone.

Yes—especially in hot or dry weather when lawns can dry out quickly between waterings.

Yes—by preventing water from sitting on the surface and encouraging even moisture throughout the soil.

This could be a sign of poor water penetration or thatch. A wetting agent can still help, but you may also need to aerate.

Yes—especially helpful for water-repellent soils in veggie patches or under mulch.

Yes—helps rainwater penetrate rather than run off. Especially useful on sloped or compacted lawns.

Yes—they help water penetrate the soil and support early root development. Just avoid overwatering.

Definitely. Even small patches can suffer from dry spots or runoff, and wetting agents help get the most out of every watering.

We have 1L, 4L and 10L sizes for the Pure Wetter product

Plant Growth Regulators (PGRs) are used to manage the growth rate of your lawn, improve turf quality, and reduce the frequency of mowing. Here’s a simple guide on how to use PGRs effectively:

1. Choose the Right PGR:
Select a PGR suitable for your specific grass type. Commonly used PGRs include Primo Maxx, which is effective on a variety of warm—and cool-season grasses.
2. Application Timing:
• Cool-Season Grasses: Apply PGRs in the spring and early summer when the grass is actively growing.
• Warm-Season Grasses: Apply PGRs in late spring or early summer after the lawn has greened up and is actively growing.
3. Preparation:
• Read the label instructions carefully to determine the correct dosage and mixing ratios.
• Mix the PGR with water according to the product’s guidelines. Measure accurately to avoid under- or over-application.
4. Application Process:
• Use a calibrated sprayer to apply the PGR solution evenly across the lawn.

A PGR is a product that slows down vertical growth in lawns while promoting lateral growth, helping the lawn thicken up and reducing mowing.

It temporarily inhibits the plant’s growth hormones, redirecting energy from upward growth into root and lateral development.

Yes—when applied correctly and at the recommended rate, it’s safe and effective for all common Australian lawn types.

Reduced mowing, better colour, thicker turf, stronger roots, and improved drought tolerance.

Not if used correctly. Overapplication or incorrect timing can cause discolouration or stress.

PGRs work best during the growing season (spring to early autumn) when the grass is actively growing.

No—it just slows vertical growth. You’ll still need to mow, just less often.

Yes—by promoting lateral growth instead of vertical, PGRs help your lawn fill in and become denser.

Yes—many PGRs are tank-mix compatible with liquid fertilisers, but always do a jar test first.

Most people see results within 5–7 days with reduced mowing and improved lawn structure.

Yes—overapplication can cause temporary yellowing or stress. Stick to the label rate.

Best to apply once your lawn is mostly healthy and growing well. PGR won’t fix bare patches.

If applied and watered in properly, you shouldn’t need to reapply. Heavy rain right after spraying may reduce effectiveness.

Yes—many lawn owners apply both at the start of spring for weed prevention and growth control.

Avoid using PGR on new lawns until they are fully established and actively growing.

Yes—it’s very effective at reducing seed head formation, especially during summer.

Yes—slower growth gives a smoother, more consistent cut with fewer scalping issues.

It can slow thatch accumulation by reducing excessive top growth.

Indirectly—thicker turf helps choke out weeds, but it’s not a herbicide.

Only if directly sprayed on them. Keep applications targeted to the lawn.

Wait until recovery and the lawn is actively growing again. Full coverage of the lawn.

No—wait until the lawn is actively growing or you won’t see the benefit.

No—it may even improve efficiency by reducing stress and helping nutrients go further.

Yes—especially if you want less mowing, better colour, and a tighter look.

Proliferate (16-2-9) is formulated for seeding and new turf — gentle nitrogen with the phosphorus young roots need. Water consistently, and add Pure Seaweed+ to accelerate root establishment. Hold off on herbicides until the lawn is established.

Turbocote Couch Lawn Seed for full-sun warm-season lawns; Turbocote Kikuyu Seed for hard-wearing family lawns (needs soil temps above 18°C to germinate); Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend for cool climates or oversowing — the same blend used on golf green surrounds.

Topdress and level with the Australian-made 40inch Lawn Level, spread granulars evenly with the Earthway 2600a Broadcast Spreader, and spray liquids accurately with a Solo 414 Li (10L) or Solo 441 Li (16L) battery sprayer — add the Solo 2 nozzle mini boom for wider, faster coverage.

Late spring to early summer, when warm-season grasses are growing strongly and can push through the sand quickly. Never bury the leaf completely. Spread evenly with a 40inch Lawn Level, then feed with Proliferate to drive recovery.

Aerate during active growth — mid-spring through summer. Clay soils compact faster and benefit from yearly aeration (pair with Gypsum Greens Grade); sandy soils can go every 1–2 years. Aerating at the same time as fertilising, dethatching or topdressing multiplies the benefit.

Wait for soil temps: warm-season seed (Turbocote Couch, Turbocote Kikuyu) needs 18°C+ soil — sow spring to early summer. Cool-season Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend suits autumn sowing and cooler climates. Sow at 1kg/100m2, keep consistently moist until established, and feed with Proliferate (16-2-9) at seeding.

Yes — oversowing with Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend in autumn gives a green lawn all winter while the warm-season grass underneath is dormant. The alternative with zero mowing: paint-style colour from the Winter Green Bundle.

Feed at installation or within the first weeks with Proliferate — its 16-2-9 analysis with phosphorus supports root establishment. Water consistently, don't mow until you can't lift a corner of the turf, and hold off herbicides until fully established.

Top-dress low spots with washed sand or sandy loam in late spring/summer when the lawn is growing strongly — apply thin layers (10mm max per pass), work it in with a levelling tool like the Australian-made 40inch Lawn Level, and never completely bury the leaf. Repeat over consecutive seasons for big undulations rather than one deep fill. Feed with Proliferate afterwards to push recovery through the sand.

Spring through early autumn for warm-season varieties — the soil is warm and turf knits down in 2–4 weeks. Avoid laying warm-season turf in winter (it sits dormant and can fail). Water daily for the first 1–2 weeks, don't mow until you can't lift a corner, feed with Proliferate at installation, and add Pure Seaweed+ to halve establishment stress.

Depends on soil temperature: Couch and Kikuyu seed (Turbocote Couch, Turbocote Kikuyu) germinate in 7–21 days once soil is consistently above 18°C; Perennial Ryegrass (Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend) is the sprinter at 5–10 days even in cooler soil. Seed sown into cold soil just sits there — patience or a soil thermometer beats re-sowing. Keep the surface consistently moist the entire germination window; one dry afternoon can kill a strike.

For a lawn renovation it's best to use the following products:

1. A Granular fertiliser to help speed up renovation recovery:
- Dominate: lawntips.net/products/dominate

2. If you haven't already, renovation time is a perfect time to apply an insecticide to prevent grubs.
- Acelepryn will protect your lawn for 6 months: lawntips.net/products/acelepryn-gr

3. A wetting agent can aid in water retention and save you water after the renovation is done.

If you would like some more information, check out my renovation article: lawntips.net/blogs/tips/how-to-renovate-your-lawn-step-by-step-guide

Or my video: youtu.be/1833cgOr6j0

No, there have been multiple studies conducted, and the conclusion was that doing a renovation after applying pre-emergent or insect control won't impact the effectiveness of the product.
If you are still unsure, apply these products after the renovation.

For grasses like Kikuyu, Couch, Buffalo, and Zoysia, it's best to do it in early spring. Usually, when the low and high day temperatures are added together, they equal around 35. You can renovate earlier, but this is the basic rule of thumb.

Lawn renovation is a full refresh of your turf. It usually includes dethatching, aerating, topdressing, and fertilising — all aimed at improving lawn health, appearance, and performance.

Over time, lawns can build up thatch, become compacted, develop bare spots, or lose their vigour. Renovation helps reset the turf for stronger growth and better density.

In Australia, for warm-season grass, spring to early summer is ideal — the lawn is actively growing and will recover quickly from any stress or damage caused during renovation. For cool-season grass, early Autumn is the best time as it's not too hot, but the soil temperatures are still up.

Once a year is enough for most lawns. If your lawn is in good shape, you may only need a full renovation every 2–3 years.

Aeration creates holes in the soil to reduce compaction and improve air, water, and nutrient movement to the roots.

It’s the process of spreading a thin layer of sand or soil mix over your lawn to level the surface and improve soil structure.

Yes—if you’re in a cooler region or have ryegrass-based lawns. Warm-season lawns usually don’t need overseeding unless you’re repairing bare patches.

Yes—great option for couch or kikuyu. Use clippings from dethatching or a healthy patch, spread them over bare areas, topdress lightly, and keep moist.

Around 1m³ per 100m² if applying at 10mm thickness. A little goes a long way for light dressing.

Depends on your site. Buffalo (e.g. Sir Walter): best shade tolerance, soft, low maintenance. Couch (incl. TifTuf): fine leaf, loves full sun and low mowing, very drought-tough. Kikuyu: fastest growing, cheapest, extremely hard-wearing but invasive. Zoysia (e.g. Sir Grange): premium look, slow growing, less mowing. Whatever you have, a grass-specific Lawn Plan tells you exactly what to apply and when, all year.

Tiftuf is a type of green couch. The green couch plan will suit.

Tahoma 31 is a type of green couch. The green couch plan will suit.

For product recommendations for Tiftuf, check out the Couch Products Page: lawntips.net/pages/couch-products
(Tiftuf is a couch grass)

Yes, you can overseed Kikuyu grass with Couch grass. When you want to kill the Kikuyu, you can use either Monument to help you kill the Kikuyu.

If you go to the page lawntips.net/pages/kentucky-bluegrass-products you will find all the products compatible with Kentucky Bluegrass Lawns

You can use Bow and Arrow to kill broad leaf weeds in ryegrass and all fertilisers we sell are safe on ryegrass too. I would avoid using Odessa herbicide as this will kill your ryegrass lawn and Monument will do the same.

If you go to the page lawntips.net/pages/zoysia-products you will find all the products compatible with Zoysia Lawns

If you go to the page lawntips.net/pages/kikuyu-products you will find all the products compatible with Kikuyu Lawns

If you go to the page lawntips.net/pages/couch-products you will find all the products compatible with Couch Lawns

If you go to the page lawntips.net/pages/buffalo-products you will find all the products compatible with Buffalo Lawns

If you go to the page Fescue Products lawntips.net/pages/fescue-products you will find all the products compatible with a Tall Fescue Lawn

Yes, you can use couch seed with a ryegrass lawn, but it’s important to consider their different growth habits. Ryegrass thrives in cooler months and establishes quickly, while couch grass excels in warmer weather and may dominate during summer. To blend them, aerate and prepare the lawn, sow couch seed during warm months, and ensure good soil contact. Water frequently until established, then adjust to deeper, less frequent watering. Regular mowing and monitoring will help maintain a balanced, year-round green lawn.

It sounds like your soil might be compacted. This can happen for several reasons, such as heavy foot traffic, mowing, or even the natural settling of the ground over time. Compacted soil restricts root growth, reduces air exchange, and can lead to poor water infiltration, which can negatively impact the health of your lawn.

You might need to aerate the soil using a core aerator to address this issue. A core aerator removes small plugs of soil from your lawn, which helps to relieve compaction and allows air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil more effectively. Aeration also encourages deeper root growth, leading to a healthier and more resilient lawn.

In addition to aerating, you might also need to apply a wetting agent. Wetting agents are designed to help water soak into the soil more efficiently rather than running off or pooling on the surface. This ensures that the water reaches the root zone where it’s needed most. Pure Wetter can help improve water infiltration.

The Pure Couch seed is La Prima Couch.

No, unfortunately, Tiftuf doesn't produce a viable seed to plant. The best way to grow Tiftuf is through turf, plugs, or sprigs

Buffalo grass, also known as St. Augustine grass in some regions, is typically not grown from seed. This grass type primarily spreads through stolons (above-ground runners) and is usually propagated through turf, plugs, or sprigs. Buffalo grass seeds are not commonly available, and even if they are, they may not establish as reliably or quickly as other grasses.

My golf green has 007, 777 and flagstick bentgrass.

Most lawns, including rainfall, need about 13-30mm of water per week. Deep, infrequent watering encourages more profound root growth.
Each time you water, apply 13mm or irrigation to your lawn.

Here at Lawn Tips, we have plenty of resources to help you get started.
Our YouTube channel is a great place to start: www.youtube.com/LawnTips
Our Free Calendar can clear up some product timing questions: lawntips.net/products/lawn-calendar
Or reach out at help@lawntips.net

Unfortunately, there are many different situations involved in fixing a lawn. Email us at help@lawntips.net with some photos to get some personalised tips and advice.

Not really—better to fix the conditions that are causing the problem.

Couch, Kikuyu, and Buffalo are popular in Australia. It depends on sun exposure, usage, irrigation and your preference for maintenance.

Regular mowing, fertilising, and topdressing helps. You can also sprig or seed bare areas.

Yes, but not all grass varieties have seed (like Tiftuf couch). There are other ways of spreading these varieties of grass though such as sprigging, plugging or chaffing. Most grass types have seed available though.

It helps level the lawn, improve drainage, and encourage fresh growth.

Yes—just don’t overload the lawn. Alternate or space them out by 1–2 weeks.

It’s a structured program for fertiliser, herbicide, and soil health tailored to the time of year.

Anytime—just jump into the current season and follow from there.

A season-by-season breakdown of what to apply, when, and why—with tips for watering, mowing, and troubleshooting.

It helps, but isn’t required. Our plans are designed for general conditions.

Yes—just start slow. Products like Pure Seaweed+ are perfect for new turf. Avoid pre-emergents on newly seeded or turfed lawns

If you see burning, rapid yellowing, or excessive thatch, you might be overdoing it.

Yes—just expect slower results and reduce mowing frequency, depending on grass type.

Nope—it’s a guide. Adjust based on weather, lawn condition, and product availability.

Start as soon as the grass begins actively growing—usually September in most parts of Australia.

Use moisture-retaining products like wetting agents, avoid mowing low, and water deeply early in the morning.

Absolutely—great for thickening up the turf, applying fertiliser, and starting a pre-emergent program.

Light rain can help wash in granulars, but heavy rain may wash everything away.

Could be fertiliser burn or iron deficiency. Water in granulars properly and avoid over-application.

You might need to aerate or address soil compaction, thatch, or underlying pest issues.

Thatch is a layer of dead material under the grass. Dethatching or scarifying in spring helps.

Not necessarily—only if your lawn feels spongy or has poor growth.

A broadcast or drop spreader gives even coverage. Use one that suits your lawn size.

Definitely—it ensures you apply the right amount per 100m².

Yes—sharp blades give a cleaner cut and reduce lawn stress.You can also replace them

Check out our Youtube channel for detailed videos and lawn care tutorials. www.youtube.com/@LawnTips

Wait until you have mowed it 3-4 times, and it is established enough before applying any herbicides.

The usual suspects: nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen or iron — feed with Pure Balance 15-1-5 or Pure Iron+), winter dormancy in warm-season grasses (normal — see the Winter Green Bundle for colour), compacted or waterlogged soil (aerate and apply Gypsum Greens Grade), or disease like Kikuyu Yellows (treat with a fungicide such as Impala or Tribeca).

Work through the big four: (1) Dry spots from hydrophobic soil — water beads off; fix with Pure Wetter. (2) Lawn grubs — patches lift like carpet because roots are eaten; treat with Acelepryn. (3) Fungal disease — irregular patches or rings, often after humid weather; treat with Chlortan, Tribeca or Impala. (4) Scalping or wear — repair with seed and Proliferate.

Warm-season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu, Buffalo, Zoysia) naturally go dormant and lose colour in the cold — it's protection, not death. You can keep colour through winter with the Winter Green Bundle: Pure Colour pigment for instant green, Pure Iron+ for chlorophyll, and Pure Seaweed+ for frost tolerance.

That's thatch — a layer of dead organic material between the green leaf and the soil. A spongy lawn needs dethatching (scarifying), best done in late spring when the lawn can recover fast. Follow up with Proliferate fertiliser and Pure Seaweed+ to speed recovery, and consider topdressing with the help of a 40inch Lawn Level.

Dog urine is concentrated nitrogen — it burns the centre of the patch and green-rings the edge. Hose the spot immediately after your dog goes, then repair dead patches by raking out, re-seeding (Turbocote Couch or Kikuyu seed, or Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend in cool climates) and feeding lightly with Proliferate.

Moss means compacted, damp, shaded, hungry soil — fix the conditions and the moss loses. Aerate, improve drainage with Gypsum Greens Grade, prune back shade where possible, and feed the lawn regularly with Dominate so grass outcompetes it.

Four levers: mow regularly (frequent mowing forces lateral growth and density — never take more than a third of the leaf), feed consistently (Dominate granular each season plus the Pure Lawn Tips Mix monthly), water deeply but infrequently to drive roots down, and fix what's holding the lawn back — compaction (aerate, apply Gypsum Greens Grade), thatch, or weeds (Bow & Arrow). For the pro-level shortcut, Primo HG Turf Growth Regulator redirects vertical growth sideways, thickening the lawn while you mow less.

Rake out dead material, lightly fork the soil, then either let surrounding runners fill in (warm-season lawns repair themselves fast in summer if fed) or re-seed: Turbocote Couch or Turbocote Kikuyu seed in spring/summer, Premium Perennial Ryegrass Blend in cool climates. Feed with Proliferate (16-2-9), keep moist until established, and use Pure Seaweed+ to accelerate rooting. If patches keep coming back, check for grubs (Acelepryn) or dry spots (Pure Wetter) first — otherwise you're repairing the symptom, not the cause.

All lawn grasses need some direct sun — Buffalo tolerates the most shade (3–4 hours minimum), followed by Zoysia; Couch and Kikuyu need full sun. In shade: mow higher to give more leaf area, reduce traffic, water less (shade stays damp), and feed lightly but regularly with Pure Balance 15-1-5. Pure Seaweed+ helps shaded turf maximise limited light through stronger roots. If an area gets under 3 hours of sun, no grass will thrive — consider garden beds or shade-tolerant ground cover there instead.

Something like the Earthway would be ideal lawntips.net/products/earthway-2600a

For a premium cut, especially on couch or kikuyu, a cylinder mower gives a clean, even finish. For convenience, a rotary mower works well on uneven lawns.

Cylinder mowers: Every 20–25 hours of mowing.
Rotary mowers: At least once per season, or when the cut looks torn instead of clean.

A lawn leveller helps spread topdressing material evenly across your lawn. It’s ideal after renovation or for fixing bumpy patches.

If your lawn gets compacted or high foot traffic, yes. For smaller lawns, a manual corer is fine. For larger lawns, hiring or using a plug aerator saves time.

Use a scarifier or groomer in late spring or early summer when the lawn is actively growing, so it recovers quickly.

Yes—but mow higher than usual for the first few cuts to avoid further stress to the lawn.

Yes—a broadcast or drop spreader gives even, accurate coverage. It reduces patchiness and avoids overapplication.

Typically, it takes 3-5 business days to receive your order. We’re doing our best to deliver it promptly for you.

Please make sure you tracked your order from our Tracking page. Or contact us at help@lawntips.net

Unfortunately not—due to safety and logistics, our warehouse isn’t open for pickups.

You can contact the Lawn Tips Team at help@lawntips.net

This discount is only for lawn tips products such as granular fertilisers and liquid fertilisers. Unfortunatley we cannot offer this discount on Turf Culture and Syngenta Agency Products.

Please check our return/refund/exchange policy here.

No, we don't allow exchange of items once purchased.